I found Delhi's attraction at Masjid Moth

I first visited Delhi as a boy of nine on a 'Bharat Darshan' trip with my family. It was supposed to be a trip for the kids to see the country’s landmarks, but I was mostly taken aback by the sheer crowd, dirt, dust, noise, loudness and crowds of Delhi. We lived in a mountain village of four hundred back then. I still remember looking down from the 4^th floor balcony of a hotel (called Neelkamal or Kamal Hans or something with a kamal in it) in Chandni Chowk and seeing more people in one sweep of the eye than I had perhaps seen in my lifetime. I could not find anything appealing in the city. Yes, Gandhi's memorial was cool, so were Jantar Mantar and Red Fort and so on but they weren’t Delhi, they were more like things that had been mentioned in school and had seemed unreal or far away. Textbooks in 3D form.

As I went to college and then to business school and then worked in Chennai and abroad, Delhi was the airport I flew from, the bus station I boarded the bus to Himachal from and the second choice railway station. It was my gateway to the world beyond Himachal but it was one I did not look forward to crossing through. Delhities were rude and seldom answered my questions, auto drivers seemed to be out to fleece me. I was a simple mountain boy in a place that was out to get me, trample me. Someone once said, 'Delhi is cut-throat'. That it is and it almost cut my throat so many times. Only masochism or love could have driven me to move to and walk around the city I most dreaded.

The truth is it was a little bit of both, but that is a different story. Over nine months of wandering, I found many things that made Delhi tolerable. But it was only after I paid ten grand last Diwali to fly to Delhi for just two days, that I realized that I, like so many sceptics before me had become a Del-mantic. Sure I was partly there for the friends, but the truth is that something else draws me back to Delhi. I can’t put a finger on what it is. The city hasn’t changed, it is still as dusty, loud, and polluted as ever so it must be me. I have a theory that over all of these centuries, the city never really changed. The loved tortures, subdues, and changes its lovers without ever once moving itself.

On Diwali, over a pontificating session, we discussed how Diwali might have been celebrated a few centuries ago without reaching a conclusion (this was pontificating after all). But the next day I went with Varsha (who writes here and is still wandering around Delhi) to Masjid Moth. This was the first time someone else had taken me wandering around Delhi. I had often seen the signage from a flyover on the Outer Ring Road reading 'DDA Masjid Moth Flats'. Often I had imagined that there must be a Masjid Moth and a couple of times even thought of venturing there.

The first surprise came with the realization that Masjid Moth is not anywhere near those DDA Flats. It is a good 3-4 kms away near Hauz Khas. We got off an auto and, expertly, Varsha led me through a maze of streets. I have often noticed and never mentioned that there are many Old Delhis in Delhi. You can go anywhere in an older neighbourhood and find an old fashioned market where a grocer sells only limited goods, a stationer only stationery, there are a couple of shops for fixing the punctured tyres of bikes, a couple of cheap eateries and a doctor who calls his business a 'dispensary'. Old Delhi just happens to be the biggest such neighbourhood and the most chaotic. But that is beside the point. We were now in the heart of something somewhere in Hauz Khas with chaotic criss-crossing lanes in an old fashioned market place. I could not believe I had missed a site this close to where I took Spanish classes.

After walking a few minutes, we came upon a stone structure to our left. It was ruined and dilapidated. There were a few cars parked next to the walls, which stank slightly of urine. We walked through a small gap, past a wall, turned right and then saw a gate. Stunning. Carved with delicately carved floral patterns and geometric figures, it has to be the most ornately carved gate I have seen in Delhi. Once inside, I was surprised again with the carving in the second picture below.

It is very un-Islamic to have a life form carved in a mosque, infact it is prohibited by the Quran. This is however a case of a mixing Hindu and Islamic architecture: a Hindu arch laid within a Muslim arch. The story of the mosque's origin is also fascinating and can be found at this Wikipedia link.

As we walked in and wandered around the courtyard, the quintessential Delhi ruin quiet caught on and I just sat on a parapet mulling over life. It is amazing how repeatedly, Delhi can throw old buildings your way which really transport you back into time, where the sound of the traffic seems to come from a distant place and age. I was thus lost in a reverie when I was interrupted by a voice. It was the security guard at the mosque talking to Varsha. She was asking him questions about the history, which he did not have concrete answers to. I got up from my seat and walked over to them. He was clearly a recent immigrant from either Eastern UP or Bihar, like most of the security guards in Delhi these days. Slowly, as he got talking, he mentioned his previous job at Humanyun's Tomb. In a soft tone, he said

'There are ghosts there.'

Varsha was almost livid. She does not like nonsense. However, before she could interrupt him, I cut in, 'Really? How do you know?'

'I have seen them. All the guards in Humayun's tomb are scared of going anywhere near the crypt in the night. Sharp at midnight, when everyone is asleep, and the tomb is absolutely silent and dark, the royal procession of Humayun makes it way out clad in royal shining fine silk robes and mounted on beautiful steeds.'

I was already in dream ghost land when Varsha, who could take no more of such nonesense, pulled me away. To this day, I have been imagining how the plot would have developed. Would Humayun's procession cross the road and be joined by a procession of Abdul Rahim Khan-i-Khana and, together, would they meet the spirit of Nizamuddin and seek his blessings? Or would the procession just wander around lamely within the tomb walls? Damn you Varsha!

The guard also sheepishly mentioned something about ghosts in Masjid Moth but I did not get to hear about them either. Instead we sat down under a tree and read a little from a book which describes the mosque. I climbed the top of the gate to see if I could get a good picture (I couldn't) and then we heard the creaking of an opening door. Right opposite us, in the courtyard of a small shanty sharing a wall with the mosque was an old man with a newspaper. The courtyard had a line with laundry hanging on it. Casually, the old man sat down on a chair, appraised his surroundings with a slow movement of the neck, looked towards us and the courtyard of the mosque, and finally faced the mihrab and started reading his paper. It’s only in Delhi that someone can so casually share a wall with history while a visitor from another city stands across the way appreciating the finesse of the fabric hung out to dry, and fantasies of royal phantoms march through the courtyard between them.

I couldn’t capture the word, but I almost understood what pulls me back to Delhi.

The Gate

The Blasphemy

The courtyard

The Mosque and............The Ghost

Chor Minar

Seems I was wrong. The last post did not turn out to the last post. There is still some life left in the old dog.

Chor Minar dates back to the earliest of my Delhi walking days. I met a new found friend, Himanshu Dube at his office in the Asian Games village. Eager to list down places I should visit, I opened a small pad and picked his brains. He mentioned Chor Minar in Hauz Khas. It sounded attractive. One of those days, still early days, I hunted around for it after my Spanish class had finished (despues de mi clase de Español habia terminado).

And in typical Delhi fashion, I stumbled upon blank faces after blank faces. Having found nothing, I moved onto greener pastures. There was Tughlaqabad, Freoz Shah Kotla, The Fraser Mansion etc etc. Chor Minar was then consigned to lying deep down somewhere in my notepad, buried under many pages of scribbles, sumdged by the ink around. It was not until one mid January afternoon when I had nothing to do that it came back to me. I was leafing through the pad and found it scribbled in one corner.

So I made my way to Hauz Khas, this time intent on finding it. I did find it. Its a non-descript short, pudgy tower in the middle of a patch of dried grass surrounded by elite houses on all sides but it is one of the oldest monuments in Delhi.

Built sometime in the Khilji period (late 13th and early 14th centuries), it is said to have been named Chor Minar because of its reputation of holding the severed heads of thieves, serial offenders and royal wrath invokers in its many small wall holes. To me, the holes look too small. So, back then, either all offenders were really pea brained individuals or maybe, their heads were brutally beaten to fit these holes.

Either way, its a perfect place to note the contrasts of Delhi. Late 13th and early 21st centuries look at each other in the face with the ease of childhood buddies and yet, beyond the half broken fence of the small park, the clock turns back near the rubble masonry minar.

Location - Hauz Khas (click here for the map location)

Co-ordinates - N28 32.863 E77 12.342

Closest Metro Station - Hauz Khas (Yellow Line)

Landmark - None really

Sunset at Hauz Khas

From right next to the Hauz Khas tank, close to the ancient site of Hauz Khas Medresse.

Barah Khamba

Location - Hauz Khas/Green Park (click here for the map location)

Co-ordinates - N28 33.177 E77 12.122

Closest Metro Station - Hauz Khas/Green Park (Yellow Line)

Landmark - Aurobindo Place market

Barah Khamba from the entrance gate.

Barah Khamba literally means 12 pillars. As expected, the square tomb stands on 12 pillars, 4 large ones on the corners and 2 small ones on each of the 4 sides. Each side measures 10.5 metres. The 'Delhi Heritage' board at the entry says 'At one time there were several cenotaphs inside this building,...' All that remains now is some cardboard boxes and clothes drying on a line.

Drying clothes and cardboard boxes have replaced the cenotaphs.

The graves outside the structure, together with a bastion, a dry well and a structure which would have probably held a lamp still survive. The bastion like structure can be seen on the left of the tomb in the first photo. It is said to date back to the Lodhi period. My guess is the square shape on the inside in addition to proximity with other Lodhi period construction leads to this conclusion. I will however need to read more to ascertain this. The square shaped inside has a row of small niches just below the squinch. The north and south walls have arched openings just above the main arched gateways on either side.

The row of niches below the squinch.

Close up of the dome

Like its neighbours, Dadi Poti ka Maqbara Barah Khamba is fortunate enough to be blessed with some artificial lighting, which I later figured was a last ditch ASI effort to beautify the city before the commonwealth games. However, I would rather have spent the money on 'real restoration' of the monument than spend it on lighting a monument which has clothes drying inside it. Anyway, what the lighting does is make all of them look beautiful and surreal after evening, which sort of serves the purpose in a posh neighbourhood, where only 1 in a 1000 walking past will ever think of entering it.

Barah Khamba lighted in the night

Inside the tomb with light streaming in. Photo Courtesy: Rachel Leven

Dadi-Poti ka Maqbara

Location - Hauz Khas/Green Park (Map location here)

Co-ordinates - N28 33.208 E77 12.226


Closest Metro Station - Hauz Khas/Green Park (Yellow Line)

Landmark - Aurobindo Market

The Dadi and Poti tombs from the entry gate

Just as the road turns in towards the Hauz Khas village, rounding the corner around the Aurobindo market, a look to the right transports the scene to the 15th century. On the left of me, across the road is the Aurobindo market. I was in the market at the Midlands book shop, trying to hunt down 'The Hall of a Thousand Columns' by Tim McIntosh Smith. The book traces the 8 year journey of the great Moroccan traveller Ibn Batuta in India and derives its name from a hall in the Tughlaqabad palace which Batuta has eloquently described in his journals. Just as I left the book shop and walked out a little further up towards Hauz Khas village, there was blinding light on the right. It was already dark and I could see 2 monuments bathed in orange light. The domes atop them were lighted puprle. Intrigued, I entered through the black iron gate.

The tombs lighted up in the night

The complex houses 2 tombs, one fairly larger than the other. The larger, Dadi ka Maqbara, dates to the Lodi period while the smaller, Poti ka Maqbara is from the Tughlaq period. The original names of the tombs are not known, nor is anything known about the people buried in. It is said the tombs derived their current names much later and owe this to the disparity in their sizes (Dadi is grandmother and Poti is granddaugther in Hindi).

The tombs from the North

Dadi ka Maqbara - 15.86 metres X 15.86 metres in dimension, dating to Lodhi period, this is the larger of the 2 tombs. The northern and southern walls have arched entrances and 2 levels of 4 arched niches each, giving it a 2 storey appearance from the outside, which is typical of many Lodi period tombs. Inside, the structure is square at the base. As the walls rise, its get octagonal, then hexagonal and finally 32 sided before the sides merge seamlessly to form the round of the dome. There are unidentified graves inside.

From the North East

From the complex's entry gate

Same shot, different time

One of the corners inside the Dadi tomb

Poti ka Maqbara - smaller in size at 11.8 metres X 11.8 metres and with sloping walls typical of the Tughlaq period, this structure is a bit of an enigma. Tombs traditionally have their entrances to the South and as such, the south face gets the maximum artisan attention. However, the south face here is plain. The north face on the other hand is ornately decorated, though the decoration has blackened with time and lack of care. The dome on the top is supplemented by a lantern shaped structure, possibly to hold a lamp. As with the larger monument, there are unidentified graves inside.

The carving (blackened on the top and sides) on the north face of the Poti ka Maqbara

Looking through the South entrance with shadows in the night

The lantern structure on the top of Poti ka Maqbara

Poti ka Maqbara glows in the night

As the evening descends, the lights put up by ASI come on and give them a surreal look. Watching them from the road outside is like looking back in time. From seeing a black Mercedes flit past you to these serene structures which have seen it all for the last 6 centuries. To think that the man whose adventures I was trying to find the book for could have possibly overseen (or atleast seen) the building of these monuments 6 centuries ago!!